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Mohair
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Over 60% of the world mohair production is in South Africa – their clip for 2005 was expected to be approximately 3500 tonnes. As indicated on the cashmere page, the number of goats actively farmed in New Zealand has fallen to an all-time low, and it is estimated by Meat & Wool New Zealand that only approximately 80 tonnes of Angora mohair fibre are produced annually (compared with 500 tonnes at the peak). Despite the relatively low cost of fleece testing and the benefits of selection given the usually wide range of fleeces within flocks, on the whole few animals are objectively measured in New Zealand and consignments tend to be assembled on the basis of subjective assessment. Nevertheless, where testing or shipment certification is undertaken, SGS laboratories play their part, with mean fibre diameter, yield, medullation, kemp and fibre length being the most common test requirements. Mohair is particularly vulnerable to medullation, and this was one of the primary factors that led to development of the OFDA test method for medullation (IWTO-57), in which "objectionable fibres" can be differentiated from normal medullated fibres. Mohair prices and production are very fashion-dominated and hence the fibre is said to be relatively volatile compared with other animal fibres. Fashion requirements for lustrous fibres, which can give brighter dyed colours, and brushed surfaces, tend to trigger demand. Mohair fibres are relatively smooth compared with wool, and that gives the fibre a smooth and silky handle. Mohair is frequently blended with wool. The International Mohair Association (IMA) recognises three grades of velour for the upholstery trade:
In the late 1990's SGS undertook research to develop a rapid screening method for wool-mohair blends using the OFDA measurement system (see Fibre Type Discrimination on the Technical Publications page). Blend analysis services are available through our worldwide network of Cashmere Labs |
